Pustekuchen

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Games are fun, but games involving pastries are extra fun. Pustekuchen (in German puste means ‘puff’ and kuchen means ‘cake’ is one of my favorite family games made by the German company Haba. All you have to do is blow a light ball straight into a hole in the picture of the dessert to win a related dessert card. It’s a perfect game for Friday night, when your digestive system is already working on several slices of pizza and your only wish is for a hot drink and something sweet.

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The cool thing about Pustekuchen—besides being for ages 4 to 99—is that when kids play it, they have no idea that they’re learning
discipline, concentration, taking turns, and patience. After all, games are about escaping reality, about being side-tracked into a made-up, a fictional world without risk of disapproval.

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Who knew that transforming fiction into reality only intensifies the make-believe experience?

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Attention please! According to the new rules, when you win a dessert card, you also get… the actual dessert!

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You still have to win first, which makes patience even harder now.  Unfortunately, in German, Pustekuchen also means, “Not a chance!” or even worse, “Not a bit of it!”

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But it’s all worth the effort.

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Lesson Learned: If games can create good times, food can make them memorable.

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(And never try to make five desserts in one day!)

A Meal for Mother Earth

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I have so much admiration for people who compost in apartment buildings. I never did, and I was not even aware of at-home pick-up services for organic waste. But now, since I moved to a house with a yard, I try not to miss a single opportunity to make compost from my own organic waste. It gives me so much joy to see that I can use vegetables for family meals and save the scraps for the compost… compost that will be used to enrich and fertilize the garden soil, a soil that will provide vegetables for our table, and so on.

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Somehow, when I make a strawberry cake and I have it with tea or coffee, and when I save the strawberries’ leaves and stems, the egg shells, the tea bags or the coffee grounds for the compost bin, it’s like I share my dessert with nature. Composting creates a concrete positive connection with the environment, one that is as important as understanding the abstract environmental benefits of composting, such as soil conditioning or reducing landfill waste.

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That’s why I like Compost Stew, a picture book by Mary McKenna Siddals. In it, composting is a way of showing care to the environment by preparing a fresh and healthy stew for earth.

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Ashley Wolff used a collage of collected materials to illustrate the picture book, which is a clever way to reinforce the message of recycling.

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Compost Stew is also rich in useful information about what goes and what doesn’t go into a compost pile, as well as why it’s important to create a balance of “green” organic materials (which contain large amounts of nitrogen, such as apple cores) and “brown” organic materials (with large amounts of carbon, such as dry leaves).

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Composting might seem like a new trend, but it’s really an age-old process of nature. As leaves and plants fall to the ground, they decompose, giving nutrients back to the land.

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Compost Stew also teaches the alphabet through rhymes, which reminds me of the alphabet soup of garbage from another excellent picture book, I Stink! by Kate and Jim McMullan.

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The McMullans write about a garbage truck that describes his job and his important role of keeping the city clean… in a kind of gross but cool way. I always wish the truck wouldn’t mix organic, recyclable, and other waste in one place.

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But, in the end, it’s not the garbage truck’s fault - he just carries whatever we decide to fill him with.

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Cherry Blossoms

There’s nothing quite like cherry blossoms. First, they remind me of a subtle treat. They’re called cherry blossoms, but they do not produce fruit, though the flowers and even the leaves are used as culinary ingredients in Japanese food.

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It is rather the visual attractiveness of the blossoms, their exquisite delicacy, their startling appearance, and especially their quick disappearance, that make them so much like a child’s favorite treat.

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They suddenly burst forth like popcorn.

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And they rapidly fill the sky.

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Light and fluffy,

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Like cotton candy.

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Passing, like a cloud. Like childhood.

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Surreal. Like a dream.

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This year’s cherry blossoms inspired me to make green tea frosting. One teaspoon of Matcha added to neutral or vanilla frosting, and you get two in one: tea and dessert!

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Cherry blossom trees seem to extend one to another, like good friends. The friendship began in 1912, when Japan gifted 3,020 cherry blossom trees to the United States.

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An unclear, hazy friendship that was spoiled during World War II.

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A time when, in the land of green tea, soldiers lined up to die.

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They were ordered to scatter, like cherry blossoms on land. Or from above, in airplanes. Kamikaze airplanes with cherry blossoms painted on their side.

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The falling petals were seen as the sacrifice of youth for the homeland.

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The new flowers, the reincarnated souls of dead soldiers.

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Today, cherry blossoms look like a haven from all enemies.

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People of all kinds and from all corners of a troubled world wander under the blossoms. And for a very short time, they allow themselves to see “life in pink”.

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April Fools’ Food!

The idea of using food to play jokes, to be funny and to be clever came to me from the children’s book Ketchup on Your Cornflakes? by Nick Sharratt. It was a gift my husband got for me on a business trip to England, and not for April Fools’ Day!

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It’s a simple book made of split pages, so that you can turn the top or bottom half of the book and make silly food combinations, such as milk on your toast or jam in your lemonade. It’s definitely interactive and entertaining, like other Nick Sharratt picture books focused on food: A Cheese and Tomato Spider, Don’t Put Your Finger in the Jelly Nelly, and What’s in the Witch’s Kitchen?

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On April Fools’ Eve, before going to bed, the kids and I whispered about a plan to fool dad the next day. We agreed to make what looks like a fried egg, but actually it’s a meringue with lemon curd.

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For the meringue, I used room-temperature whites from 3 eggs (I saved the 3 yolks for the lemon curd), a pinch of salt, and 3/4 cup of granulated white sugar (sugar determines texture as well—less sugar for less crispiness). To add vanilla flavor without affecting the white color, I used vanilla-infused sugar that I made with vanilla bean shells. Whenever I use vanilla bean seeds in recipes, I toss the bean shells in my sugar jar, and it makes “vanilla sugar.”

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The egg whites are beaten with the salt until foamy, then sugar is sprinkled progressively, until the shape of the foam forms what is called bird’s beak. I laid out a sheet of parchment paper and scooped out a spoon full of meringue. For spreading and shaping, I used the back of a spoon to make a thin, circular layer. Perfection here requires avoiding an exact circle. My meringue has a well in the center, a nest reserved for the lemon curd.

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The meringue is baked at low temperature (200F) for 2 hours. Increasing temperature to save time is not a good idea—it will turn the meringue brown, if it doesn’t burn it. It’s better to set the oven alarm and forget about it.

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After removing the meringues from the oven, let them cool and start making the lemon curd. In a saucepan, whisk together the zest of 3 medium lemons, their juice, the egg yolks, and 1/2 cup of sugar. Over medium heat, stir the mixture until it thickens. Then remove the saucepan from the heat and mix in 1/2 stick of room temperature butter, previously cut in pieces. Once the lemon curd has cooled off, transfer it to a plastic pipe and fill in the gap in the center of the meringue.

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Jokes are only funny the first time you hear them. So with the rest of the meringues, we made whatever shapes and sizes we wanted, and we filled them with as much lemon curd as they could hold!

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To finish, a sprinkle with crystallized sugar and cocoa powder to simulate salt and pepper… or salt and cumin, like we use in Morocco.

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You can plate with real vegetables, bacon, or whatever you like, in order to reinforce the trompe l’oeil effect.

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Do you like sugar on your egg? I mean do you like salt on your meringue?

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It’s Spring!

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It’s Spring but snow is everywhere!

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Do the buds on trees make you happy?

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A promise of reuniting with Mother Nature,

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Of trees bearing fruit and lands bestowing crops.

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Spring! A tale of transition and anticipation,

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Perfectly interpreted by Julie Fogliano’s picture book, And Then It’s Spring,

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Perfectly portrayed by Spring Flower lollipops of Sprinkle Bakes, a flower captured in ice waiting for warm weather to melt away, and

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Perfectly illustrated by Silly Apron cupcakes with edible flowers emerging from vanilla frosting,

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It’s Spring! A promise of better times…

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St. Patrick’s Meal

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My two boys agree on two things: they love the color green and they hate green vegetables. In Arabic, the color green (akhdar) and the name for vegetables (khodar) have the same root, so for me the connection is natural. For St. Patrick’s Day, my plan was to make a green vegetable based meal.

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Hold on: why does a Moroccan have anything to do with St. Patrick’s Day? According to some obscure math that makes my husband a quarter Irish, my kids are, by deduction, Irish as well. I was introduced to St. Patrick’s Day during my first year in the US, years ago when my husband was a student in Chicago. The entire Chicago River turned green overnight. It was a perplexing experience for me.

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Now, back to my green meal. It’s true that I could dye some vegetable green, like potatoes, for example. After all, thanks to Dr. Seuss, green eggs are already a normal part of the culinary world of kids.

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But what’s on my mind doesn’t need any dye, and it’s really delicious. Here’s a hint: Popeye the Sailor Man?

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When I made green spinach pasta the first time, my kids thought I used food coloring. They were shocked when I told them the ingredients, but it was too late, they had already eaten two servings! Since then, I’ve made green pasta several times. The first time I followed the recipe to a “T,” and I thought it was too easy. The second time I made it from memory and discovered some pitfalls. In sharing this recipe with you, I want to emphasize where it can go wrong.

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You’ll need: 2 cups of all-purpose flour (or half semolina and half flour), 3 eggs, 1 pound of spinach leaves, 1/4 tsp salt, and 1 tsp olive oil. There are no exact measurements. When making the dough, add more flour if it’s too wet, add some egg if it’s too dry…

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First, boil the spinach. Some recipes call for 15 minutes, but I find that spinach wilts quickly, so 2 minutes are enough. Drain the cooked spinach under cold water. Make sure the spinach is completely cooled off (if it’s still warm, it will cook the eggs), then gently squeeze away the excess water with your hand. This is important because the pasta dough gets its moisture mainly from the eggs, not from the water. Next, use a blender to process the spinach and eggs, mixing just enough to get a homogenous paste. At this point, if you change your mind, you can take the Dr. Seuss route and make a green egg omelette!

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Now for the pasta dough. In a large bowl, use your fingers to mix together the salt and the flour (and semolina), then make a well in the middle. Add the green egg mixture and the olive oil, then work everything together for about 5 minutes. When your dough forms an round shape, move it to a well-floured flat working surface and continue kneading for 5 more minutes with both hands. Wrap the dough in plastic and let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

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Now, flour the working area generously. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and, with a rolling-pin, flatten each piece as thin as possible. Hang each layer on the back of a chair lined with a folded kitchen towel and allow to dry for 45 minutes. After that, sprinkle the table with flour and stack the 4 layers of pasta, one on top of the other with flour sprinkled between layers. Then roll the whole thing into a cylindrical shape.

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Slice the pasta roll with a big, sharp knife. You can cut 2-inch wide strips if you’re making lasagna, 1/4-inch wide ribbons if you’re making fettuccine. I decided that fettucine is best for St Patrick’s Day, since the noodles look like the snakes in St. Patrick’s Day mythology.

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You can cook the noodles right away, and it should only take a couple minutes. The longer you wait, the more the pasta dries and the longer it takes to cook. You can serve the pasta with a red sauce or a white sauce, but I prefer it with just butter and grated cheese.

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Tiny Food for Big People

They are called hors d’œuvres, bocas, tapas, banchan, dim sum, thali, zakouski, pu pu platter, mezze… to name just a few. They are appetizers. Some are eaten between meals like tapas, some are served before the main course like hors d’œuvres, some announce the beginning of a meal like antipasto, some are served alongside the main dish like Moroccan salads. Each has its own story and characteristics; what they all have in common is that they are too small to constitute a meal in and of themselves—unless they’re eaten in large quantity, but that’s not the point. As the American television personality Joe Moore puts it, “Appetizers are the little things you keep eating until you lose your appetite.” Appetizers are meant only to calm your hunger, and that’s why there are never enough of them.

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My favorite appetizers are what the French call amuses-bouches or canapés, a kind of hors-d’oeuvres that are not necessarily followed by a meal. Often served at receptions and cocktails, they provide just enough of the food element to create the atmosphere of familiarity that fosters informal chatting among people. Amuses-bouches are easy to pick up and taste in just one or two bites, and you can easily move about while enjoying them.

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But above all, there is something chic and elegant about amuses-bouches. Unlike the down-to-earth tapas originally meant to cover long hours between farm work and dinner, or the substantial dim sum historically made for travelers along the Silk Road, amuses-bouches are an eighteenth-century French invention intended to please guests, and the tradition of hosting still defines these appetizers. In principle, as an invitee, you don’t order them, you don’t pay for them, and you don’t complain about them.

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I discovered amuses-bouches as an art student in Aix-en-Provence while attending exhibit openings. With their visual and decorative aspects, they were the perfect appetizers for such occasions. The same types were served in all gatherings, which was nice because it let you go directly to those you crave most. These appetizers left such a mark on me that when a friend recently asked me to help cater her wedding, I recreated my favorites guided only by fond food memories.

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To my amuses-bouches, I ventured to add a mini version of onion tart by French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, as well as a few different spreads by Moroccan chef Mourah Lahlou from Mourad New Moroccan, which I combined in a single cup. At the wedding reception, my older son sat on a stool at the bar where the appetizers were served, and I could hear him say, “My mom made these!”

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Years later, you can still find in France the same amuses-bouches I knew when I was student, along with an array of more inventive ones—new combinations and pairings based on different cuisines. In the culinary world, appetizers seem to be viewed as an independent category complete with its own signature chefs and national competitions. According to Jean-Georges Vongerichten, “The amuse-bouche is the best way for a great chef to express his big ideas in small bites.” With appetizers, there is so much to explore and try, even if you’re not a “great chef,” because with these tiny portions, there is little risk of colossal failure.

My Favorite Carrot Dish

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I am not sure if it’s because of those multicolored Easter carrot candies that have sprouted up on store shelves everywhere and that you just can’t miss this time of year, but this is the first time I have noticed rainbow carrots in the fresh produce section of our local store. I’m talking here about real carrots; I didn’t even know they existed, although I may have already been served them, disguised in a pot-au-feu or something.

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I’ve been surprised to learn two facts about rainbow carrots. First, carrots were originally purple or white; the orange carrots we’re familiar with are the result of hybridization, and other colors are now making a comeback. Second, vegetable pigments reflect different nutrients—the more colorful the carrots, the better they are for you!

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Color and health factors partially explain the popularity of carrots. They’re not expensive, so I don’t plant them in my tiny garden, but they’re nonetheless easy to grow. Compared to other vegetables, carrots are versatile. You can eat them cooked or raw. When cooked, they welcome many different spices, and you can safely take them down the sweet or savory path. When raw, carrots’ crisp texture makes them crunch as you bite, their practical shape makes them easy to hold, and their sweetness makes them a great finger food or snack.

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Unlike Americans, Moroccans eat carrots cooked or grated into salads… except for my kids, who only eat raw carrots in their original cone shape, and always while watching cartoons. When eating them, the boys remind me of Bugs Bunny, the fun and casual cartoon character famous for saying his catch phrase—“Eh… What’s up, doc?”—while chewing a carrot. Since his first appearance in 1938, Bugs has been in more films than any other cartoon character. According to this year’s Guinness Book of World Records, Bugs Bunny is the ninth most portrayed film personality in the world. Did he have an influence on kids’ consumption of raw carrots? I like to think so.
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When I saw rainbow carrots for the first time, I knew how I was going to use them. I was not going to eat them raw, but rather in one of my favorite vegetable recipes.

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Not Moroccan Couscous with Seven Vegetables, because, as its name suggests, that dish is already rich in colors and varieties, and this new distinctive vegetable would just fade into the mix; not in the delicious Moroccan carrot appetizer made with cinnamon, because that recipe needs a very sweet type of carrot, and rainbow carrots are no sweeter than regular ones. When I saw rainbow carrots for the first time, the combination of orange and white carrots reminded me of carrots and parsnips together in a recipe by Ina Garten: Orange-Braised Carrots & Parsnips. It’s outstanding. Please try it sometime. It’s quite simply my favorite carrot dish.

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But really you can use rainbow carrots as you use regular orange carrots in your favorite dishes with a bonus of color and nutrients.

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The Tale of Rabbits & Me

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I was surprised when shopping for my son’s Valentine’s Day class project to see that Easter items were already on the shelves. I had never heard about Easter or the Easter bunny before I came to the U.S., and the holiday didn’t register with me before my first child went to school. I also didn’t grow up reading picture books about rabbits—I didn’t grown up reading picture books, period. But for some reason I had an affinity for rabbits, and this image and others in my memory reminds me that rabbits were my companions, they were my bunnies.

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I am perhaps four years old, in my late grandparents’ courtyard in Oujda, a far eastern Moroccan city that borders Algeria. Oujda is also the hometown of my aunt, the one who breeds rabbits, and that must be how I ended up with this bunny. It’s strange that the bunny appears to be looking straight at the camera. From what I remember about bunnies, they keep their head sideways when they’re watching you, pretending they don’t care, when in fact their visible eye is intently sensing your every move. If you look closely, that’s exactly what I am doing in this picture as well. As a child I was uncomfortable being photographed. In family pictures, you have to search for me like it’s a scene from Where’s Waldo? I remember feeling that all I could do was to avoid eye contact with the camera, looking sideways. That’s how bunny and I were one. We shared food-bread for me, mint for him. My brother had a dog, my cousin had a cat, and I had a bunny.

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One day my aunt from Oujda came to visit us in Meknes, where her mother, her sister, and her brother (my father) had settled. Female guests integrate easily, as they smoothly join the house workforce, especially helping out in the kitchen. I remember that it was sunny outside and cold inside, typical of Moroccan homes during winter, as rooms are large and no heating systems are in place. I returned from school for lunch. The living room was more crowded than usual, and it was time to huddle up around the table. Some moved little, like my grandmother and my father, who wore heavy wool and tried to settle in by gathering large layers of clothing close to their bodies. The rest of us are hopping—or pretending to hop—to the right or left, to make space for someone else. One more chair is brought from the other room for the last person to be seated. The tajine is finally placed in the center of the table, and a mixture of relief and anticipation fills the air, as if we were lighting a long-awaited fire.

The tajine’s top is removed, releasing steam that hides faces from my memory, and I inhale a unique warm and spicy aroma of what is clearly a fine braised meat and vegetable stew. Then, in absolute silence, I break off a piece of bread and dip it into the silky saffron sauce. All speaking is gone, all subjects are out of context – if you need someone to pass you more bread, you whisper. Everyone is focused on the meal, but no one touches the meat… not yet. Then someone, most likely my mother, swiftly detaches select pieces of the still burning meat with her fingers, then places the best piece in front of the person at the top of the hierarchy: my grandmother. This gives the green light to the rest of us that we can begin eating the meat.

“This is the best chicken I have ever had, Allah yatek saha! (May God give you health!),” I recall saying. Then I notice my aunt smiling in an awkward way, as if her smile failed to match the expression in her eyes. More noticeable was her silence, when according to Moroccan table manners, she should have acknowledged my compliment. What follows is an unidentified voice piercing through whispers and laughter that still echoes in my memory: “This isn’t chicken, it’s rabbit!”

“Bunny rabbit?” I swallowed in disbelief.

I kept quiet, so as not to be rude to our guest who went to the trouble of slaughtering bunny in our yard, near his home that I regularly cleaned for him, slicing through his body with our serrated kitchen knife, searing his flesh in strong spices to suffocate it in its own juice, drowning it in muffled water and abondoning it there over the heat until it completely let go and fell apart from the bone. I kept quiet in the presence of my father, our guest’s brother, and I waited until the subject changed, which didn’t take long. Then I discretely left the table with a heavy heart.

Valentine’s Day

There are many, many picture books about Valentine’s Day. And the great thing for me is that the majority of them are food related (Think chocolate treats, heart-shaped cookies, and so on). But when it comes to picking the picture book that best expresses the idea of love, the first title that comes to my mind is No, David! by David Shannon.

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No David! is not a Valentine’s Day book as such. Not only is David not a cute and sweet cupid, but each page of the book discloses yet another act of mischief, to the point that you wonder whether Shanon will ever manage to restore his main character’s image.

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There is something about David’s unsophisticated style that is comforting to kids. Even though I see my kids smiling at every one of David’s silly actions, you can feel their tension grow as his mother’s patience reaches its limits. Finally she has control over David by manipulating his emotions and confusing him with guilt, and as if that were not enough, she sends him away to the corner like a useless, unwanted thing. Now WE are confused, and not sure what to think or how to feel about the little monster.

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And then, I read the last page, and a tiny body by my side reaches for me with open arms and holds me tight for a while. It’s amazing how the book has the exact same effect on both of my kids, even though they are very different boys. They ask me to read the book again and again, and each time we reach the end, their reaction is the same. Never bored with feeling loved, with having confirmed that love is always there, even when it doesn’t look like it. That’s why for Valentine’s Day, I vote for No David!

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Now, for the Valentine’s Day celebration at school, it’s another story. There is a tradition of sharing cards and sometimes treats with classmates. My oldest wanted to make cards that say something about himself. He told me he is fascinated by two things: ocean life and food. I ordered heart-shaped cookiecutters for each of his classmates, and he drew instructions on different ways to use them.

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Some days, there is a precious mother-son bonding, when our energies, thoughts, and deeds flow in the same direction.

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Some other days, kids are kids and parents are parents. Not everyday is Valentine’s Day, but the love is always there, no matter what.

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